The Caliph’s House: A Year in Casablanca, by Tahir Shah
The Caliph's House whisks readers away on an exhilarating journey from the gray streets of London to the sun-soaked city of Casablanca. Travel writer Tahir Shah, driven by childhood memories and a thirst for adventure, uproots his family to restore Dar Khalifa, a crumbling mansion once home to the city's spiritual leader.
But this is no ordinary fixer-upper tale. Shah's vivid storytelling plunges us into a world where ancient beliefs collide with modern aspirations. The family's greatest challenge isn't the renovation itself, but the unshakeable conviction of locals that their new home is haunted by jinns – mischievous spirits demanding appeasement.
"In Morocco," Shah writes, "rational thought and magic are like two fruits on the same tree." This duality comes alive as the author navigates cultural misunderstandings, bureaucratic nightmares, and the looming threat of a supernatural eviction.
From midnight rooftop vigils to ward off evil to a climactic exorcism involving seven Islamic masters, Shah's experiences are by turns hilarious, hair-raising, and deeply moving. His keen eye captures the essence of Morocco – a place where "the muezzin's call to prayer mingles with the beeping of mopeds and the smell of grilling meat." The Caliph's House is more than a fish-out-of-water tale; it's a heartfelt exploration of family, faith, and finding home in the most unexpected places.
“The backstreet cafe in Casablanca was for me a place of mystery, a place with a soul, a place with danger. There was a sense that safety nets had been cut away, that each citizen walked upon the high wire of this, the real world. I longed not merely to travel through it, but to live in such a city.”
Interesting Facts & Links:
Tahir Shah is a travel writer and documentary film maker with over fifteen books published, most of which focus on exotic travels though Africa, India and Asia. He co-wrote the IMAX film summarizing a trip to Mecca made by one of the world’s most prolific travelers, Ibn Battuta, in 1325. Shah has also written a number of serious journalistic pieces that highlight causes he believes need a voice.
The title "Caliph" refers to the previous owner of the house, who was Casablanca's spiritual and legal authority. Shah's purchase of this culturally significant property raised eyebrows among locals.
The author discovered a hidden hammam (traditional bathhouse) within the property during renovations, which had been sealed off and forgotten for decades. Shah employed a team of traditional Moroccan craftsmen to restore the house, including master tile makers who used centuries-old techniques to recreate intricate mosaics.
The book sparked a mini-tourism boom in Casablanca, with readers seeking out Dar Khalifa and other locations mentioned in the memoir.
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